Lesson: Resizing and Reworking

Lesson 9: Resizing and Reworking
Sometimes it is necessary to resize a ring/ bracelet after you have finished it, or to shorten a linked necklace or bracelet. Consider your styles and how easy or difficult they will be to resize- this is also a good thing to keep in mind when designing. If they will be hard, you may want to consider making a completely new ring instead of attempting a resize. While almost all rings can be resized, some rings do not make good sense to resize.
One tool that is very handy for any resizing job is the Mark-a-size measuring tool. Most of the tools supply catalogs carry this.
To resize:
• Cut open the ring at a convenient point. (preferably on the backside of the ring)
• To go smaller, cut out the necessary material.
• To go larger, add in a piece of metal the necessary length.
• Having the ring on a ring mandrel will help you determine these lengths. The Mark-a-size has all of the lengths laid out for you.
• Resolder at these points.
• File and finish.
Tips:
• For resizing of ½ size or smaller, you can hammer the ring shank on a mandrel to enlarge.
• If your ring doesn’t have any epoxy, enamel, or stones and is a band style you can usually use a ring stretcher to enlarge the ring ½-1 size.
• If there are pearls in the ring, remove them.
• If you have soft gemstones such as turquoise, jade or opal in the ring, remove those as well.
• Most other stones (and enamel) can be protected with a heat shield product unless they are right near the soldering area.
• If there is epoxy in the ring as a decorative element, you are probably better off remaking the ring. The epoxy will give off dangerous fumes when heated, and I have not had success with any of the heat shield products. The surface of the epoxy becomes ruined.
• Enamel protected by the heat shield may need to be refired. Occasionally the heat shield can mar the surface of the enamel- it depends on the quickness and heat of the soldering, as well as the color of the enamel.
• If you have a textured band-style ring, you will want to save any pieces you cut out from resizing rings smaller to use when you need to make a ring larger. Alternatively, keep an extra unfinished casting around to use for this.
• If you have a wire shank, make sure that you insert a piece of wire the same size and profile. If you do not have one on hand, or cannot find one that matches exactly, insert one slightly larger, and file the profile down to match.

You may also be asked by customers to rework a piece for them. Common requests include different ear wires/posts, different chain and clasp, different finishes, or using their stones in one of your pieces. Most of these requests are easily done.
For earrings, I recommend making a new pair rather than switching from ear wires to post or to a clip backing.
If the customer is interested in having you use a stone they already own in a piece of yours, make sure to see and measure the stone first. Unless the customer is familiar with jewelry, they tend to over or underestimate the size. If it is a very expensive stone have them keep the stone until the piece is ready for setting.
Remember to add in a charge for your time in this. You will likely need to buy or make a new setting, and may have to modify the design of your piece to accommodate the stone.